From Paris, just a little bit tardy

My husband and I were very fortunate to swing a trip to Paris in March.  We were there for about seven incredible days, and we immensely enjoyed ourselves.  I love getting recommendations before I leave for a trip, and I wanted to share some of mine with you.

Accommodations - We stayed at the Emeraude Hotel Lodge Du Centre and were very happy with our budget choice.  It is located in the theater district, not far from Metro stations.  It was within walking distance of the Galeries Lafayette.  The staff was very friendly, the room was small but clean, and we had a great little balcony where we would have afternoon glasses of wine.  It was right across the street from a Franprix (grocery store) and there were lots of restaurants nearby. 

Food - We were trying to stay on a budget, so no mind-blowing 4 course meal recommendations here.  We ate at a lot of sandwich shops and small bistros, but we had great food almost everywhere we went. 

• Our favorite bakery for sandwiches was a chain Paul.  
• We had a really nice dinner at Chartier, which was right near our hotel.   The waiter was extremely helpful - drawing pictures of menu items since we don't speak much French, and steering me away from intestine.  I had the special, pot au feu, and it was great. 
• A friend of ours recommended Angelina for hot chocolate and dessert, and it was AMAZING!  We split a limited time offering Mont Blanc at their location at Versailles, and it was to die for.  The hot chocolate is super-rich, so stick to a small (especially if you're ordering a dessert too).   
• I love chocolate, and wanted to bring some home for myself and for gifts.  We stumbled on the cutest shop Jeff de Bruges, and I'm so glad we stopped in to check it out.  The chocolates were super cute, and they were delicious.  I bought a small menagerie of Easter chocolates for a very reasonable price (compared to other places we looked).   

Experiences - Everyone goes for a different reason, so don't take our word for it and go try the things you want to try.  We purchased a 4 day Paris museum pass, which I definitely recommend, since it gets you into many of the places listed below.  It also allows you to skip the line since you don't have to wait to buy tickets. Here are some notes from some of the places we went:

• Eiffel Tower - We didn't go up into the tower, but I really didn't want to.  It was breathtaking to behold.  The hotel's desk clerk recommended that we get off at the Metro stop "Trocadero", and the view was so magnificent when you come around the corner that I teared up.  I've loved the Eiffel Tower since I was a little kid, and this was the first stop after dropping our bags at the hotel. 
• Musée du Louvre - It was great.  Overwhelming, huge, crowded, but great.  I regret that we only went once.
• Musée d'Orsay - This was my favorite museum.  I think the train station in the movie Hugo had to have been inspired, at least in part, by this beautiful space. I like that the art was arranged to make it easier to see many different types of pieces, whereas at the Louvre they are arranged very methodically. 
• Chateau de Versailles - The Palace was crowded with tour groups, which definitely took away from the experience (especially the Hall of Mirrors), but the gardens on the grounds were stunning.  We spent most of the day exploring the gardens and the other palaces and estates.  If you plan to do this, definitely wear comfortable shoes because it is a huge area to cover.  They have a tram, bicycles and golf carts for rent, but we chose to explore on foot. 
• Notre-Dame - Gorgeous!  We went through the cathedral and then went back the next day (early a.m. to try to get a good spot in line) to go up into the Towers.  I loved the view from the top of the towers, but hated the hike to the top (up a circular stone staircase single-file); however, the photos that I took from the towers definitely made it worth the torture of the climb.
• Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise - This is the final resting place of many famous people, including Jim Morrison.  His grave is barricaded due to vandalism, and it is really a shame to see how the neighboring monuments have been defaced.  We enjoyed our peaceful stroll among the intricate monuments.
• Les Catacombes de Paris - Crazy macabre and interesting.  In preparation for our trip, I read a very cool vignette in the book Parisians: An Adventure History of Paris by Graham Robb about how the catacombs came into existence, which definitely enhanced my visit.  It's also close to the chocolate shop mentioned above.
• Palais Garnier - Bravo!  We only did a tour, but I imagine it would have been amazing to see a performance in such a breathtaking venue.  If you are at all interested in opera/theatre/ballet, I would not miss it.
• Folies Bergere - We had no plans to go see a show while in Paris, but the theatre was just down the street from our hotel so we decided to check it out.  The theatre is definitely showing age, but it was a wonderful venue to see a show.  We saw the show Shadowland, and really enjoyed it.  It was a very pleasant surprise.
• Musée de l'Orangerie - A custom and fitting home for Monet's water lilies.  It's not a large museum, and is a great way to pass a couple of hours in the afternoon while exploring the Tuileries. 
• Musée Rodin - We didn't make it to the museum until late in the afternoon, so we focused on the outdoor sculpture garden.  If I were going to get married again in Paris, this would be a gorgeous place to do so.  The Thinker appears right at home, mulling in the midst of the manicured garden.
• Sacré-Cœur - We had our only negative experience here.  You walk up hill through a shady neighborhood to get to the steps that lead up to the Basilica.  When we reached the hill, we were inundated by men trying to make string bracelets on our arm, even after we let them know that we weren't interested.  It seemed like pickpocket central, and our plan to watch the sun set from a spectacular vantage point quickly changed when we realized that we definitely did not want to be in the area after the sun went down.   

Tips - Here are just a few things I wish I would have known before we arrived.  I read guide books, but somehow I missed the following:

• Cash is king!  I normally operate on a credit/debit card only basis, and it's entirely possible to do so in Paris, but it definitely seemed that the vast majority of purchases in Paris are made in cash.  At restaurants, the server would have to come back around with a portable swiping machine, which would delay our departure (good thing we were on vacation and were never in a hurry).  Many stores have a credit/debit minimum, and you need to be prepared to pay cash if your purchase falls below the minimum.  In summation, carry cash.
• Exchanging currency is expensive.  You can minimize the cost by activating your debit card for international travel before you leave, and then just withdrawing cash from the ATM just like in the US.  If you have to exchange at a currency exchange, it's normally less expensive to change further from the touristy areas.  Finally, if you don't like the rate that they give you at the currency exchange, it is negotiable.
• If you go to the theatre, be prepared to tip the usher who shows you to your seat.  We didn't figure this out until we saw most theatregoers offer some coins to the usher.  Also, be sure to arrive on time because when the house lights go down, there's a mad stampede to any open seat ahead of that in which you were ticketed. 

I was so overwhelmed upon seeing the Eiffel Tower for the first time.  It was a dream come true, and I couldn't imagine why I had never been before.  If going to Paris is a dream of yours, don't needlessly complicate it - make a plan, buy a ticket, and go there!  It really was amazing, and I can't wait to go back.